Last weekend I
took a bus from Boston to New York to stay with a friend in Brooklyn. He’d
invited me down to watch the New England Revolution play the first leg of the
MLS Eastern Conference championship series against New York in Red Bull Arena. My
friend’s been a fan of Thierry Henry since Henry’s first days at Arsenal, and he
wanted to see the French striker’s last game in New York, maybe one of his last
games ever.
Shortly after I
arrived on Saturday night, and with zero fanfare, my friend opened a bottle of
1963 Dow port and poured glasses for us and his wife. How he came to have a
bottle of 1963 Dow sitting on his kitchen counter is not to be gone into here,
but something should be said of the wine itself. The great British critic
one of the top four or five
vintage ports of the 20th century by anyone's reckoning.” The particular bottle
I tasted last Saturday was one of the best wines I’ve ever had, despite its having
been stored indifferently on multiple kitchen counters for more than a decade
(after, it’s true, three decades of impeccable storage in a London cellar).
Since there can’t
be many bottles of 1963 Dow left, it may (just) be worth recording some of my
own impressions, which I jotted down on a scrap of paper: “Translucent maroon,
you can see through it, like tea. Green apple, pepper, caramel, licorice, asphalt.
Not necessarily complex, but perfectly balanced, without a hint of that nasty,
vegetal mintiness of table wines that are past their primes.” When I asked my
friend for his impressions, he (most would say rightly) winced and said, “I
don’t do that.”
My urge to treat
the wine as something beyond a mere beverage—to comment on and discuss it—and
my friend’s equally strong desire to shun such pretentions and keep his
thoughts to himself can be seen as emblematic of how Americans react to wine.
Even though wine is enormously popular in the U.S., it has never fully shed its
reputation as the drink of snobby, rich aesthetes. The following passage from
Ernest Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast illustrates
how the author could only drink wine naturally in Europe, or anyway outside the
U.S., where Americans fetishize the stuff:
“In Europe then we thought of wine as something as healthy and normal .
. . Drinking wine was not a snobbism nor a sign of sophistication nor a cult;
it was as natural as eating and to me as necessary.”
I thought of some
of this last weekend when I drank vintage port and, later, watched the game. I also thought (not for the first time) about the similarities between
wine and soccer. Most obviously, fans of each tend to intellectualize their
passions, to talk about them in stilted language, though there is nothing
inherently intellectual about wine or soccer. Wine critics talk of a wine’s
“finesse,” its “lingering finish” and “exquisite balance,” its “masculinity”
(or “femininity”) and “nobility.” In short, they use terms and concepts that
are typically not applied to other foods or drinks, even beer and spirits. Soccer
commentators employ similarly nerdy terms that would sound laughable if they
were used to describe almost any other physical activity outside the performing
arts. They talk of a player’s “quality” and “current rich vein of form,” of
“naive” defensive plays and “educated” left feet, of “brilliant finishes” (that
last term neatly overlapping with wine lingo).
All of this contributes to the popular notion that
soccer and wine are the provinces of snobs and eggheads, not “normal” people.
I’ve mentioned
something of Americans’ uneasy relationship with wine. We have a similarly
uneasy relationship with soccer. While growing in popularity, particularly with
young Americans and urban liberals, soccer has never been widely accepted here.
The documentary Once in a Lifetime: The
Extraordinary Story of the New York Cosmos has an illuminating interview with
John O’Reilly, the former New York Cosmos promotions director. O’Reilly
describes the 1975 press conference that introduced Pele to the New York press
after Pele signed with the team. O’Reilly recalls the influential, conservative
New York sportswriter Dick Young shouting from the back of the crowded room:
“[Young] was just heckling the entire time. ‘Soccer is for foreigners,
shouldn’t be played in America!’ Everything negative.” Many American political
conservatives continue to carry Young’s torch. Ann Coulter’s June 2014 jeremiad,
“America’s Favorite National Pastime: Hating Soccer” is representative. Soccer,
she writes, is “foreign” to Americans and is a threat to American values.
So while Americans
are watching more soccer than ever—as evidenced by the strong ratings here for
the 2014 World Cup and rising MLS attendance—there is still a sizeable
contingent of intelligent citizens that regard soccer as un-American. And that
contingent makes it nearly impossible for any American to regard watching
soccer as Hemingway’s Europeans regarded drinking wine—“as something as healthy
and normal.”
Glenn Davis, a former professional
soccer player and current soccer radio and TV broadcaster for the Houston
Dynamo, is a proselytizer of the game. I listen to his podcasts occasionally,
and more than once I’ve heard him urge listeners to come down to Houston’s
soccer stadium to enjoy “the company of like-minded individuals.” Every time Davis
mentions “like-minded individuals,” I bristle. Because the comment speaks to
soccer’s entrenched status in this country as a cult activity to be enjoyed not by all but by an enlightened few. Americans
don’t go to NFL or NBA games to be in the company of like-minded individuals.
They go to watch the games. And they assume there will be all types of people
there—blacks and whites, conservatives and liberals, Budweiser drinkers and
wine collectors—not just people like them.
For soccer to be
widely accepted in this country, it doesn’t need more like-minded individuals.
It doesn’t need more people who frequent Portland coffee houses and Brooklyn pubs.
In other words, it doesn’t need more people like me. It needs more people who want
to kick my Obama-voting, wine-note-taking ass. I may not want those people
sitting next to me at MLS or U.S. national team games, but until there’s the
strong possibility that they will be
sitting next to me, soccer will continue to be, as Men in Blazers’ Roger Bennett and Michael
Davies say, “America’s Sport of the Future. As it has been since 1972.”